Tag Archives: SS10

Berlin gets its fash on

10 Oct

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You may remember a rant we posted after lunch with the PR for one of Berlin’s bigger fashion exports. We were miffed that the city spent so much time and (borrowed) Euros on preaching ‘Poor but Sexy’ to the converted, instead of giving local fashion talent a lift across the border. Well num, num, num. That’s us chewing on our words (not to be confused with eating them). An upcoming symposium called ‘Too Fashionable for Fashion? – How Berlin can be transformed into a city of fashion’ at least recognises that Germany’s capital is not yet on the map.  Admitting you have a problem is the first step. Those who have cracked nether markets  – think the prodigious Leyla of Lala Berlin Lala Berlin’s Leyla and Michael Sontag – will throw their hats into the ring on October 19. Perhaps they’ll mention booking berths at Paris Fashion Week. Wolfgang Joop’s Wunderkind (pictured above) has just shown spring 10 in the City of Lights and while critics were scathing of kneeless compression stockings and other athletic nuances, stirred in with floaty prairie dresses and mushroom-like silhouettes, we’ve an inkling he did it on purpose. Le Berliners are tres strange, non? Oui, but they are German. Got them talking, didn’t it?

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sartorial supremacists

3 Oct

manishsmallThere are some places people expect to be irrefutably unstylish. Just look at our inbox the day we revealed the best of Bangkok. And we soon realised our own attitude of sartorial supremacy, when the sales lad in one of those fancy Italian bag stores asked if we were from Nepal Ex-key-yoos-me? (Never mind the borderline-albino factor). Because that’s how people dress in Nepal, he said – bleached out ripped skinny jeans, striped oversized shirt and black patent ankle boots they’d of course need for kicking the goats if they stopped before base camp.
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This ignorance, while inexcusable, makes it all the more more exciting to discover talent from exotic locales. Take confessed ‘maximalist’ Manish Arora (pictured top and above). Spring/summer’s detachable lion heads make shoulder pads look so middle-of-the-road, and you call that a tulip dress? Most embarrassing when London Fashion Week’s standout collection is by a codger from New Delhi, innit?   

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A similar thing could be said of the Thais, whose fashion-forward detail and lack of inhibition outshone European counterparts at Pret-A-Porter Paris last month. (Pictured above is Klar.) 

It seems that being in the fashion wilderness is, in its own way, liberating. No Grazia espousing the virtues of investment dressing navy, and only ever one small US dollar order from relative richness. It makes sense that fringe-dwellers are leaving foreclosure-fearing fashionland natives for dead.
 

 

 

they’re only nipples

27 Sep

  

theme_punctured_blackA friend rang during the week just to check, hope you don’t think I’m imposing I just worry, you know that we didn’t really endorse those transparent dresses from 388 Wonderboutique. I mean you may as well photocopy your nipples onto a transparency and turn on the overhead projector. Wait until she gets wind of the evolution of sheer. For ss10, barely-there mesh morphs into what is known in the industry as air. From stanley knife-style circles at Austria’s Butterfly Costumes to fibres that look to have been nibbled by silverfish all winter at Manish Arora and John Rocha, nothing is the new something.  Disclaimer: Fashion Platz does not advocate the exposure of private bodily bits. All trends should be attempted with caution. If in doubt, consult your personal stylist.

crazy about copenhagen

4 Aug

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Berlin’s bold spectacles have been and gone. Amsterdam passed in a whirl of avant-gardism. Now we take to Copenhagen to see how the Danes measure up. That’s not entirely true. Long-time fans of Barbara I Gongeni, Stine Goya & Malene Birger, we are somewhat prejudiced in favour of Danish designers.  Here are our picks from Copenhagen Fashion Week’s action-packed schedule. Updates daily…

amsterdam fashion week – struts & cuts

23 Jul

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P.S. This pic from the EnD show says it all. Amsterdam is one stylish city. Find information on this fledgling Dutch label below, under Mexx. (Just look for the face paint.)

lew

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Before we get back to Berlin (and what a weekend it was in local fashion) we’re taking one last look – through Coke-bottle glasses – at Amsterdam International Fashion Week. Now we know what you’re thinking about that boilersuit and the what-in-heaven’s-name-do-you-call-that-colour?, but Lew’s ss10 show was an exciting moment for its two designers, who announced through a clever narrative that the label has come of age. In Lady Lew &  Blue Boy, their trademark academia gave way to pragmatism with wearable shapes and (for some skin tones) colours, inspired by their design digs in a former gay bar. Delicate dresses in powder box peach summoned a gentleness confined to fond memory, and the fleshy power blazer showed their humour is here to stay. We wouldn’t be  surprised if the Lew show inspired a revival of the tong curl and four eyes specs, either.

malousebastiaan

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Anyone who’s read Galileo will know the perils of appropriating space without science. But with the internet challenging notions we signed off on centuries ago, theorists are returning to their charts. Quick question, do you reckon the earth’s still round? At least that’s the shape that emerged when young Dutch design duo malousebastiaan embarked on a search for a place without borders. For SS10, Malou Verharen & Ferdinand S Hartgers have channelled their imaginings of ‘the atmosphere’ into an intriguing collection of disfigured orbs fashioned from blown-up boiled sheep, goat & deer leather. Fixed to faces and frocks, the organic matter lends a gust of power to the Globurar (‘globular’) collection’s  floaty fabrics. After all, power is knowledge. Or something like that.

 
Daryl Van Wouw

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Designer Daryl Van Wouw is one of few people to benefit from 80s fashion’s refusal to die (the CEO of Top Shop’s another).  Van Wouw’s SS10 collection, Hypercube, is yet another product of the energetic designer’s fascination with shapes and colour. Between shows that convinced us we were pattern-blind, the visual-arts-class aesthetic was refreshing, if not reassuring. Oh, I remember. Fashion is fun! While this doubly bubbly toil and trubbly cube dress (pictured right) channels a prom queen on acid, a cropped leather jacket with suede lapel insets only whispers its connection to the era of conspicuous consumption. Except when paired with lime-coloured vintage 501s. And a liquorice allsort crop top. Which, by the way, spins us right round (baby round round).    

Elsien Gringhuis

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At first we pretended we knew this label, because we assumed from the pictures that we ought to. Oh, Gringhuis… thought you said greenhouse, we’re so silly!  Minimalism requires a certain cognitive cleanliness that young designers just don’t have. Au contraire – Dutch designer Elsien  Gringhuis has been out of Arnhem Academy for less than 12 months (although she did cut her teeth at G-Star,where she still toils). We’re in awe of Gringhuis’ colourless ss10 collection and her courage to discard what sense would say one shouldn’t. As pared to perfection as the orange raincoat that won her last year’s Create Europe Avantgarde Award.  Bet you already knew about that.  

Mexx by EnD

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…a last-minute photo shoot and then our luggage… skip it? Okay. We’re actually devastated we missed one of the most exciting-sounding shows of Amsterdam’s big week. Usually we’d rather have our eyebrows shaved than see a ‘collaboration’ between a brand trying to up its cachet, and a vulnerable young label oblivious to the perils. But Mexx by EnD is different. Rather than storming in with tree print leggings (believe it – see EnD post above), or something as wildly foreign to the core customer (Josh Goot for Target, anyone?) , fledgling Dutch creatives Eva van Overbeeke and Delia Drel, of label EnD, remixed 10 seasonal looks for mass appealer Mexx. They’ve managed to impart a  childlike naivete to the decidedly commercial brand – without alienating Mexx loyalists. Truth be told we’re astounded it came off so uncontrived. We’d wear the jodhpur ensemble in a heartbeat (although we might save the face paint for special occasions.)

all AIFW pictures: Peter Stigter