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Tulle, madly, deeply :: love Berlin Fashion Week

5 Jul

 

Barbara I Gongeni SS110 video at Temporary Showroom  

What a difference a year makes. Rewind 12 months and we were calling in press pics from Berlin Fashion Week shows because we’d been distracted by Suzy Menkes, steps across the runway. Ooh look, she’s clapping. ‘Zitover?. Alas, this year’s vantage point is not so salubrious. In a village lacking even the retail equivalent to electricity – Zara, Top Shop, H & M, give my love to your sales racks – now-singular I can only pull on my best schuhs, set myself up with a bottle of Schnapps, tuck a goodie bag under my gaslift chair, and settle in in front of the laptop. Sure I’ll hardly notice the difference. I hope you’ll join me for the following shows.

Esmod Berlin Graduate Show 2009  

ESMOD GRADUATION SHOW 6pm Tuesday July 6 Take down their names, would you? 
Kaviar Gauche Winter 2010 
KAVIAR GAUCHE 6pm Wednesday July 7 Obscurity one day. Subject of glossy chuffery the next. So the fairytale always reads. But overnight success has taken seven solid years for the pair behind this fashion haus, which recently opened its first Berlin flagship against a muted domestic economic backdrop. But with alignments spanning the globe and including brands such as Swarovski, Kaviar Gauche hardly needs a pat on the shoulder (where, incidentally, you’ll find the strap of a luxurious leather carrier). Score the measured avant-gardity as you might Balmain. Then add a point for the bridal collection. I do. 

PROJEKTGALERIE 11am Thursday July 8 Part of the city’s seismic support for its budding fashion talent, this showroom can be credited with giving many an international ‘one to watch’ its commercial foothold. 

Barbara I Gongeni  

BARBARA I GONGENI 7.30pm Friday July 9 The inspiration for last year’s post titled ‘Great Danes‘, and the subject of this post’s visual and *click, you know you want to* video, this woman turns out veritable confections of tulle that make Carrie’s ballet skirt look a shade underdone for an Under 12s skating competition. The beauty of BIG is her balance of the fantastical with the eminently wearable – a tulle mitre here, a peg pant there. Here a t-shirt, there a tutu, everywhere a… 

ALSO WORTH A LOOK Mongrels In Common :: Michalsky :: Lala Berlin :: Temporary Showroom’s covetable client list including ADD, Odeur, Reality Studio.

(Please check back for pics daily.)   

forgive me, pants, for i have sinned

31 Jul

july30_finnk_blain

Just as we were about to send six pairs of poo-catcher troo-sers  to the free store (more on that stroke of genius soon), fate intervened. In the form of the latest collection from blaintechnologie, by Leipzig-born Alexandra Kiesel and Japan’s Aya Kikutani. Droopy crotch unflattering? Who said? The range notes mention ‘prothesises otherwise invisible to our bodies and souls …’ After a wine or two we might agree. But we’re thinking otherwise glaringly obvious results of too much cake. Oh, these pants are magic. Now we’re off to the free store – with four pairs of skinny jeans.

pictures http://annekathrinschuhmann.de/

western influence

23 Jul

fff_west_vertantique

We always get a slight chill as the train pulls into Friedrichstrasse station. It is hard to fathom that it is only 20 years since this behemoth of glass and American food housed the men with keys to a brave new world. Ironically, now we’re allowed in, we find the west a little too self-consciouly modern (ugly’s such a strong word).  However, this futuristic cityscape also is part of Berlin’s rich, recent history and it, too, is inspiring some daring fashion and costume design. This Reality Studio dress (2nd row, left), for instance, mimics an aerial view of Potsdamer Platz, as does jeweller Momentopia’s shop fit (bottom left).  And Joey Love’s Jetsons-esque sneakers (top left) summon parliament’s lofty dome. And with that, we’ve got a train to catch to Ostkreuz, before our ticket expires. x

learn your labels

22 Jul

tshirts_designers_jul09

Remember those alphabet cards the teacher held up in grade school – with the little pictures of apples and xylophones? Something like that would be handy right now because learning the names of Berlin’s fashion labels is harder than, well, learning German. Adddress with three ‘d’s, Finn (dot?) K, Butterfly Soul Fire (is that one word or three?) These T-shirts are even better, matching the names of local labels with cheeky rhymes you can chant to yourself on the S-bahn. We bought House of Holland’s ‘What A Corker Karen Walker’ tee a few years back and can’t fault the syllabus. Or the (give an inch, take a mile) style.

35 euros at berlin bitches.

er, i’m a bit tied up

21 Jul

fff_scarves_aschon

Just as we expected, those 12 euro desert scarves have gone off to that great outlet store in the sky and left loyalists to sport their cravats in peace. No, dude, it is not way rad gear. It is pure silk. Get your painted fingernails away.  To promote the proper use of the textilian phenomenon that transcends fads and elevates an outfit from kinda smart to unutterably chic, we thought some instruction was in order. There are hundreds of ways to knot neckwear, but our favourite is the classic neck wrap, as pictured above. The best effect is achieved using a pure silk square, like these face print scarves by Germany’s Aschon (‘beautiful’). Cotton and linen also work well. But just remember, the polyester police are watching.   

fff_scaftyingneckwrap5

1. Fold the scarf in a triangle.
2. Hold the two ends of the folded side and wrap around the neck.
3. Bring them forward from the opposite sides and tie a knot.
4. Take one layer of the scarf beneath and toss it over the knot as illustrated in the diagram.

5. Adjust a little and strut into that chi chi boutique you’re always too scared to go into!

Aschon scarves 155 euro at www.styleserver.de or Oderberger Str 49, Berlin. Or at Episoda, Boxhagener Str 113, Berlin.

tying tips & diagram courtesy www.texeresilk.com